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Drink This: Domaine Serene Wines
In the event that any of you have ever questioned whether or not this is the Best Job in the World, I recently had the opportunity to sit down and try the Domaine Serene 2007 Dundee Hills “Etoile Vineyard” Chardonnay and their entire current portfolio of Pinot Noir. You have reason to be jealous.
With Domaine Serene’s Wendy Heilmann leading the way, we sat down at BottleRock – Culver City. Glasses were brought, snacks were ordered and the wine began to flow.
We started with the Chardonnay.
2007 wasn’t a stand-out year for Oregon wine. (Or for me, either, which is why I know so much about alcohol. But I digress). The vintage is widely said to be good but not great; some people talk about lack of structure and flabbiness (see above). Tasting the “Etoile” puts all of those rumors to rest – and I’m not even a Chardonnay gal.
A perfect touch of bourbon vanilla/oaky/nuttiness from 50% new French oak and 15 months on lees. High acid and alcohol, balanced against cool melon and lime. A body full of earthy mineral that slips away for a minute and then returns on the finish.
If this is what can result from a bad year, than the past decade should totally start paying off for me. Especially if paired with oysters.
With Domaine Serene’s Wendy Heilmann leading the way, we sat down at BottleRock – Culver City. Glasses were brought, snacks were ordered and the wine began to flow.
We started with the Chardonnay.
2007 wasn’t a stand-out year for Oregon wine. (Or for me, either, which is why I know so much about alcohol. But I digress). The vintage is widely said to be good but not great; some people talk about lack of structure and flabbiness (see above). Tasting the “Etoile” puts all of those rumors to rest – and I’m not even a Chardonnay gal.
A perfect touch of bourbon vanilla/oaky/nuttiness from 50% new French oak and 15 months on lees. High acid and alcohol, balanced against cool melon and lime. A body full of earthy mineral that slips away for a minute and then returns on the finish.
If this is what can result from a bad year, than the past decade should totally start paying off for me. Especially if paired with oysters.
The next wine we tried was the Domaine Serene “Yamhill Cuvee” from Willamette Valley. This wine weighs in with 90 points from Robert Parker and a nice little write-up in Wine & Spirits Magazine: “Domaine Serene ‘Yamhill Cuvée’ is the TOP RANKING Oregon wine by the glass! (17th by-the-glass wine overall) and the 3rd most popular Pinot Noir by the glass. - Wine & Spirits Magazine 21st Annual Restaurant Poll. Avid restaurant types might recognize this (and the Chardonnay) from their favorite fine dining establishments. A solid, dependable Pinot Noir, this cuvee is a blend of Pommard (54%), Dijon (35%), and Wadenswil (11%) clones, sourced primarily from Domaine Serene’s vineyards in Eola and Dundee Hills. It’s light, it’s restrained and it’s balanced by rich mineral and a little pepper. The rains kept most of the ’07 Oregon wines from overdoing it on alcohol. The reward here – like with the “Etoile” – is tons of delicious acid and a long, rewarding finish.
Moving through the portfolio, the wines become richer, smoother, more nuanced and more delicious. Again, I would like to see this as a parallel to my own life (hoping, especially, in regard to the 'richer' part)
The 2006 “Evenstad Reserve” Pinot Noir, (namesake of winery owners Ken and Grace Evenstad), is the Domaine Serene flagship reserve. The difference between the Yamhill and the Evenstad is notable (although, for me - and despite the cadre of awards it’s won - not necessarily worth the difference in price).
Sourced from both Dundee Hills (59%) and Eola Hills (Jerusalem Hill - 41%) vineyards, Evenstad is a blend of Pommard (27%), Dijon (55%) and Wadenswil (18%) clones. It’s a fruitier Pinot for those who prefer that style, packed with pomegranate and cardamom. 15 months of barrel aging (in 47% new French oak) makes for a smooth, medium-weight wine. But I felt it was less nuanced and elegant than the Yamhill – despite the fact that 2006 was a brilliant year for the region (Yeah, I was disappointed in my own 2006, too).
But all bets are off with the 2007 Jerusalem Hill and the 2006 Mark Bradford wines. Each of these award-winning Pinots is probably among the best American I’ve tried of the varietal. They’re both single-vineyard, and they’re both spot-on, elegantly crafted examples of top-tier winemaking. In many ways they are also like two sides of the same coin. The Jerusalem Hill could be described as feminine; the Mark Bradford is weightier, more masculine.
In the “Jerusalem Hill Vineyard” there is red raspberry, rich mineral, damp earth, incense and cherry. While a little strong on the back end, the overall presentation is beautiful. Nice, round, soft. Tart acid keeps things interesting. This is an alluring, seductive wine.
But the “Mark Bradford Vineyard,” (named after the Evenstads’ son), is forceful and commanding. It’s spicy, dense, powerful. While complex, I can’t describe it as nuanced. Instead, I’d call it “brooding.” There is a lot of heat and strawberry. Nineteen months in 100% new French oak gives these Wadenswil and Pommard clones (20% and 80%, respectively) serious backbone - as well as scintillating notes of vanilla and cigar box. Like the “Jerusalem Hill Vineyard,” the Mark Bradford is supple and sexy, but it isn’t afraid to have its way with you (and, if you’re like me, you’re going to enjoy it).
