The Pitch:Rare is the double feature in today’s megaplexes. They are a throwback to the days of the studio system when the likes of MGM and Warner Bros. actually owned the movie theaters and frequently paired releases. Times have changed but going out to the “pictures” can still be a special occasion, so imagine my delight in discovering two extraordinary wines at the recent Pebble Beach Food & Wine Festival that epitomize what it means to truly be special.
Pretty much for time immemorial the grand dame of sauterne was the hugely expensive Chateau d’Yquem, but that all changed in 1985 when the forward thinkers at Far Niente Winery decided it was time California showed the world it knew how to do dessert wine right. The result is liquid heaven called Dolce, a lush and seriously good wine that explodes with flavor. Ripe pears, honey, creamy vanilla and an insanely silky smooth mouthfeel resolve into a one-of-a-kind finish.
Davis Family Vineyard’s Rapport was for me the surprise of the festival. I like my ports and have tried enough to reasonably know what to expect (including a ‘34 Montepulciano that made my head spin it was so good). My preconceptions thus went out the window when I sampled Rapport and finally knew what it would taste like if one were to distill the essence of a cigar humidor. Believe me, this is a very good thing. Imagine cedar steeped in a smoky broth of dark cherries and clove. I know, it sounds strange but you’ve got to trust me on this one.
Movie Pairing:
The best double features find some thematic element between the two movies to tie the experience together. In the case of these wines, it’s all about character. Dolce should be enjoyed while watching an icon like Humphrey Bogart in a timeless classic like “Casablanca,” preferrably in a lovingly restored Art Deco theater with your best girl or guy at your side. If you can think of a better way to enjoy life, I’d like to hear it. On the other side of the coin, the ballsy, audacious Rapport begs to be paired with a midnight showing of “Layer Cake,” a supremely cool British gangster flick featuring an edgy but cool-as-hell pre-007 Daniel Craig.
What to serve it with:
While at Pebble Beach I was treated to a pairing of Dolce and an assortment of desserts by legendary chef Hubert Keller but it was a banana milkshake of all things that lit up the senses. So skip the chocolate and go for lighter sweets that won't overpower the sublimity of the Dolce. While I have no doubt Rapport would pair nicely with a strong cheese or even a peppery steak, I want mine with a Macanudo Hyde Park Cafe cigar. Cubans like Cohiba or Montecristo tend to be a bit too full-bodied whereas the smoothness of Macanudo complements the Rapport just right.
Price: $85 Dolce, $30 Rapport (375ml bottles)
Imbiber Rating: 95 Dolce, 94 Rapport
